This little End Table will be using up the last of my Myrtlewood supply. I was lucky to be able to mirror match the sides and door. Some of the boards had knot holes and open cracks in them so I decided to fill all the holes with Clear Coat to make them useable. My wife Karen does Tatting and planed on using this for storing some of her books and supplies. I took a tatted Butterfly she made and placed it in the Clear Coat in one of the knot holes and put a small pinecone in another hole.
I wanted to put a drawer in it but didn’t want to cut down the door front so made a recessed concealed drawer in it. The drawer is made of Alder with a Black Walnut front. I made dovetail joints in the drawer.
Because of the dark color in the Myrtlewood I thought it would look good using walnut for the corners and around the edge of the top frame. I used the 45deg. glue joint router bit on the corners and the top frame which makes a really nice joint. I then routed a small 45deg on all the edges and bobbed off the top corners at 45 deg.
On top I set in a piece of ceramic tile on ½” cement board on ¾” plywood but I am planning to remove it and set in a piece of black natural granite as soon as I can get it cut.
I finished a piece of 3/8” plywood with felt bottom pads to set on the bottom behind her notebooks to use as a stop. For the finish I used special mixed furniture oil that is applied by hand rubbing and it has five coats.
After finishing this little cabinet my wife and I decided we didn’t like the looks of the ceramic tile on the top and thought it made it look cheap. A friend and custom cabinet builder said I should have used a piece of natural granite instead of the tile and we all agreed it needed done.
Me being a bit thrifty I went to the Re-cycle store and found a piece of ¾” thick x 24” square polished granite but it had a 1 ½” hole drilled dead center through it. The width I needed was exactly the same as the outside edge to the edge of the hole. I took it to my tile saw and cut it down. Then I polished the cut sides and ground a slight bevel on the edges. My plan was to hold the granite above the wood frame to the bottom edge of the bevel.
Normally when I make something I glue and screw everything together but for some reason I didn’t glue the top frame and plywood to the cabinet so it made it very easy to remove. I had only screwed it together from the inside of the cabinet.
After removing the top I had to cut a new piece of plywood for the top due to the tile and cement board being cemented, glued and screwed to the other board. I also found I needed the top of the plywood to be about 1/16th” lower in the cabinet to give me the proper reveal I wanted on the granite. I couldn’t lower the existing support boards under the plywood because they were screwed and glued in place. I used my router with a 5/8” bit and routed off the top of the support boards which was touchy doing it free handed. As I write this I just thought of a much easier way. All I needed to do was cut back the bottom edge of the plywood on the table saw standing it on edge. Guess I will save that for next time.
Well it is all back together and the granite does give it a richer look and I think it was well worth the time and effort doing.
This board was used for the two sides.
The 45deg glue joint router bit makes a super joint.
Karen’s Tatted Butterfly
The Candle or Bullet side.
The Butterfly side
The Tree side
The Owl door.
Here is another Myrtlewood cabinet I just finished building. This one is for holding our microwave and will set around the corner from the two drawer Myrtlewood cabinet I built earlier but will have a set of casters on it. I wanted to keep the same design so they would both blend with the Myrtlewood dining room table. This one is the same length but I made it two inches narrower. I’m running low on Myrtlewood but was lucky enough to be able to mirror match a lot of the wood I used in this cabinet. Even the front and back legs have a mirror match.
The entire cabinet is made of solid Myrtlewood except for the ¾” plywood bottom and top that the tile and cement board is mounted on. The drawer is box is plywood with dovetail joints. I was really happy to be able to use my new 45deg glue joint router bit on the top frame and it makes for a real super joint.
I made my own drawer slide mounts for the back so I could make the drawer as deep as possible. I also used the same hand rubbed oil finish after sanding it down to 400grit and it makes the wood feel like glass.
If you have any questions about anything feel free to ask me. Just click on photo to enlarge.