Oregon Juniper Queen Headboard

This is a Juniper headboard I made a couple weeks ago. I’ve had a couple slabs lying around and was wondering what to do with them. They were about one and a half inches thick and roughly 12 foot long. Oregon has a lot of Juniper trees on the east side of the state.

I ripped four inch wide pieces for the post three for each side which I laminated together. I first cut the center piece to fit on the ends of the headboard so I could slide the post on the headboard after they were glued together. The pieces I used on the front had part of knot holes and bark edges in them which I filled with glaze coat which is a clear epoxy.

After the post were glued and dried I ran the front and back side through the planner and removed about half an inch. I didn’t want just a square post. On all the edges of the post I ran a 45 degree cutter.

The center piece of the post and the headboard were run through the planner to be the same thickness so sliding them together would be a tight fit. After the legs were pressed on the headboard I bored two holes on each side but not through the back side. Then I glued up the holes and tapped in the wooden plugs.

The plugs were sanded flush then I glued the black walnut square caps I made up with 45 degree edges over the top of the round plugs. Everything was sanded down to 320gt then I sprayed several coats of Bulls Eye Shellac. When it was finished it was too shiny for my liking so I rubbed it down with 0000 steel wool which gave it a semi-gloss finish.

Thanks for looking.

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Gun Vise for Cleaning – Solid Quarter Sawn Oak

A friend had a similar gun vice he made and I wanted one for myself but decided to add some bells and whistles. I wanted to make things adjustable, add a tray and make my own knobs which were a first for me. The quarter sawn oak I used had some awesome grain in it. When finished I rubbed it down with several coats of medium walnut Watco Oil. I used some thick tanned leather where the wood would touch the guns.

After it was finished a good friend suggested I made a block to put under the butt end of the vice to allow cleaning fluid to run out of the barrel. That was too easy so rebuilt that end and made an adjustable leg with another wooden knob. I put four anti-skid on the bottom to keep it from sliding around.

To see a full photo just click on the photo. Thanks for looking.

 

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The Ukulele Fish Hook

Another item I recently designed is a wall hook mount to hang your Ukulele on. My friend Carl gave it its name the Fish Hook because of my last name so it is. So far I’ve made them out of Myrtlewood and Redwood. They are thicker so when you hang your Uke on the wall it keeps the body of the Uke from rubbing the wall. I also didn’t want mounting screws exposed so I milled mounting slots in the back for installing. They will also work with a guitar by spreading the hook apart a bit. A couple of my friends have done that. I also include the mounting hardware with it

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The Fish Uke Cookie Humidifier

This is something new I just designed and I call it the Fish’s Uke Cookie Humidifier. Fish for my last name.

It is very important to use a humidifier in your ukulele or guitar especially in hot dry weather to keep the wood from drying out that can cause the wood crack or split. Rubber tube humidifiers alone work well when stored in a case but not when setting out because their wick dries out too fast with the open hole in the instrument.

Fish’s Uke Cookie Humidifier covers the open hole with a hole for the humidifier. The hard wood cover has a thin soft foam back to keep from scratching your Uke top. To use it slide the wood disc behind the strings and drop in the humidifier. The hole is drilled at a downward angle to allow the humidifier to be easily installed. The wood has an oil finish.

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Karen’s Myrtlewood End Table Tatting Cabinet

This little End Table will be using up the last of my Myrtlewood supply. I was lucky to be able to mirror match the sides and door. Some of the boards had knot holes and open cracks in them so I decided to fill all the holes with Clear Coat to make them useable. My wife Karen does Tatting and planed on using this for storing some of her books and supplies. I took a tatted Butterfly she made and placed it in the Clear Coat in one of the knot holes and put a small pinecone in another hole.
I wanted to put a drawer in it but didn’t want to cut down the door front so made a recessed concealed drawer in it. The drawer is made of Alder with a Black Walnut front. I made dovetail joints in the drawer.
Because of the dark color in the Myrtlewood I thought it would look good using walnut for the corners and around the edge of the top frame. I used the 45deg. glue joint router bit on the corners and the top frame which makes a really nice joint. I then routed a small 45deg on all the edges and bobbed off the top corners at 45 deg.
On top I set in a piece of ceramic tile on ½” cement board on ¾” plywood but I am planning to remove it and set in a piece of black natural granite as soon as I can get it cut.
I finished a piece of 3/8” plywood with felt bottom pads to set on the bottom behind her notebooks to use as a stop. For the finish I used special mixed furniture oil that is applied by hand rubbing and it has five coats.

Up-Date 3-27-2015

After finishing this little cabinet my wife and I decided we didn’t like the looks of the ceramic tile on the top and thought it made it look cheap.  A friend and custom cabinet builder said I should have used a piece of natural granite instead of the tile and we all agreed it needed done.

Me being a bit thrifty I went to the Re-cycle store and found a piece of ¾” thick x 24” square polished granite but it had a 1 ½” hole drilled dead center through it. The width I needed was exactly the same as the outside edge to the edge of the hole.   I took it to my tile saw and cut it down. Then I polished the cut sides and ground a slight bevel on the edges.  My plan was to hold the granite above the wood frame to the bottom edge of the bevel.

Normally when I make something I glue and screw everything together but for some reason I didn’t glue the top frame and plywood to the cabinet so it made it very easy to remove. I had only screwed it together from the inside of the cabinet.

After removing the top I had to cut a new piece of plywood for the top due to the tile and cement board being cemented, glued and screwed to the other board. I also found I needed the top of the plywood to be about 1/16th” lower in the cabinet to give me the proper reveal I wanted on the granite. I couldn’t lower the existing support boards under the plywood because they were screwed and glued in place. I used my router with a 5/8” bit and routed off the top of the support boards which was touchy doing it free handed. As I write this I just thought of a much easier way. All I needed to do was cut back the bottom edge of the plywood on the table saw standing it on edge. Guess I will save that for next time.

Well it is all back together and the granite does give it a richer look and I think it was well worth the time and effort doing.

This board was used for the two sides.

This board was used for the two sides.

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The 45deg glue joint router bit makes a super joint.

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Karen’s Tatted Butterfly

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The Candle or Bullet side.

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The Butterfly side

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The Tree side

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The Owl door.

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Oregon Myrtlewood Microwave Cabinet

Here is another Myrtlewood cabinet I just finished building. This one is for holding our microwave and will set around the corner from the two drawer Myrtlewood cabinet I built earlier but will have a set of casters on it. I wanted to keep the same design so they would both blend with the Myrtlewood dining room table. This one is the same length but I made it two inches narrower. I’m running low on Myrtlewood but was lucky enough to be able to mirror match a lot of the wood I used in this cabinet. Even the front and back legs have a mirror match.
The entire cabinet is made of solid Myrtlewood except for the ¾” plywood bottom and top that the tile and cement board is mounted on. The drawer is box is plywood with dovetail joints. I was really happy to be able to use my new 45deg glue joint router bit on the top frame and it makes for a real super joint.
I made my own drawer slide mounts for the back so I could make the drawer as deep as possible. I also used the same hand rubbed oil finish after sanding it down to 400grit and it makes the wood feel like glass.
If you have any questions about anything feel free to ask me. Just click on photo to enlarge.

My Blueprint.

My Blueprint.

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Kayak Trailer Build

Several years ago I built this little trailer and mounted a fiberglass box on it to haul behind our Honda Goldwing for camping.  We later purchased a small tent trailer to pull around so didn’t need this one anymore. My wife and I purchased a couple kayaks last fall and I decided to take this little trailer and turn it into a kayak trailer that we could pull with our rigs or behind our Goldwing.

I tore it down to the bare frame then started my rebuild. I also went to 12” wheels and tires from the 8” that was original on it. I had to cut off the fenders and remount them due to the larger tire size.  I welded up a frame to mount the kayak racks to and then added aluminum diamond plate to the deck and made the tongue three feet longer to accommodate the length of our kayaks. I mounted a storage box on the front to hold our gear and built a Baha tire rack on the back. Then added side boards, a couple lawn chair tie downs and mounted a small 34qt cooler behind the storage box.

It pulls really nice behind the bike and I sure get a lot of looks from folks as you travel down the road. I guess not too many people are hauling kayaks behind a motorcycle.

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